Window R&R -- right bunk window

Ok.. Got some pics of the next task I tackled with some help from the kids. This time I thought I'd tackle the window replacement to ensure the weather seal is good and strong to keep the rain out. Since these two front windows are nice-n-small I thought they'd be good first candidates. Taking the old window apart was easy after reviewing the overview here. We visited the MotherShip last Friday 7 minutes before closing to get some "D" gasket which can be used as an alternative to the older style of sealing the windows to the cab using butyl rubber "tape".. I gather that using the butyl rubber tape is a messier endeavor and needs to be done about every 5 years or perhaps a bit longer. Supposedly if you use the "D" gasket you only need to do it once assuming all of the rubber gasket is concealed by a good quality Polyurethane caulking such as 3M's 5200 Marine sealant (make sure you get the "fast cure" version which dries in 24 hours instead of a week) -- you can get this sealant at places like Home Depot (cheapest I gather per a comment from my LD buddy Ramon), West Marine and various other places online.

So, in the picture to the left is the window opening with window removed, old caulking cleaned off and ready for re-installation. Make sure to follow the directions outlined in the link provided earlier -- at this point mineral spirits were used followed later by an application of Acetone to make sure things stick really well.. Did I mention I messed up the first time and had to pull the window off after >12 hours of set time with the 3M 5200 sealant on the gasket. Needless to say it was a PAIN to remove the not completely cured sealant..

In the photo to the right you can see what the window opening looks like with the window removed -- all of the wood is in good shape -- no issues here.

Here's the removed window that's been cleaned up -- no more old gasket material here. I did have to fix a few stripped out holes in the frame -- I could have used a larger screw (#10) but decided to just drill a new hole near the old stripped one. This worked out well -- I used two drill bits - one for the hole through the outer frame where the shank of the screw must pass and then a much smaller hole through the bottom part where the screw must grab. I just wanted a hole to allow the screw to start but something much smaller than the screw needed to ensure a good grab occurs. If you work on the windows on a wall such as I did, make sure you put a few rags underneath to avoid scratching the metal surfaces.

In the photo to the left, you can see the "D" gasket applied to the bottom of the window frame -- the reason it's called "D" gasket is because it looks like a hollow-"D" from the end.

In the photo below you can see the seam of the gasket where the two ends meet. Per the directions, you're supposed to put some sealant in both ends prior to pulling the backing off the last couple of inches. Make sure on each edge that you make at least two (if not four) 1/2" slits to allow the air to escape as the gasket is compressed into the opening during re-installation. Make sure the slit is on the inside edge of the gasket -- NOT the outside edge which could allow the gasket to fill-up with water IF water were to able get in there... Sorry -- I forgot to take some photos of the small slits..

In the photo to the right, you'll see the same window with the 3M sealant applied to the top-center of the D-Gasket per the directions. I put the sealant on a bit heavier than I did the first time to ensure a good seal.

In this photo you can see the finished product -- note that while the top of the window had almost all of the black "D" gasket covered with sealant the rest of the window was spotty at best so I went around the window with the sealant and added more followed by cleanup with Acetone to cleanup any mess-ups on the frame or nearby paint. Too bad the 3M product isn't available in tan with the fast cure feature (they offer a slow-cure version in tan). Unfortunately the documentation for their product doesn't really call out the option for painting but this document does indicate it's possible but that it may crack due to flexing of the material..